Understanding how to control depth of field in your photographs is one way to take creative control of your images.
When an image has a large depth field it means that everything from the foreground to the background is in focus.
A shallow depth of field is when only a portion of the image is in focus. This can mean anything from the background being slightly soft to only a razor thin slice of the image being sharp.
As an artist you don’t always want your images to appear exactly as your eye saw the scene. You want to draw the viewer’s eye to something in particular, to emphasize one thing over another in an image.
So, how do you do that? I’ll show you …
Depth of field is controlled by three things:
1. Aperture
Aperture is the size of the opening through which light travels to your camera’s sensor and it is expressed in f-stops.
The smaller the f-stop number the larger the opening. That’s kind of confusing isn’t it? It’s because the f-stop number is actually a ratio. But I don’t want to get into too much mathematics here, just remember it’s like a fraction and 1/2 is bigger than 1/8 so f/2 is bigger than f/8.
The larger the opening the more shallow the depth of field. In other words the amount of your scene that will be sharp, measuring from the object you focussed on, is smaller.
These two images illustrate the effect of aperture on depth of field. (Please click on the images to view larger versions.)
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2. Your lens
Just to make it even more complicated, all this changes with every lens you have!
So the setting of f/4 ,for example, is actually different depending on the focal length of your lens. f/4 on a telephoto lens like a 200mm is actually a larger opening than f/4 on a 50mm lens.
That means when you use your telephoto the depth of field is smaller than the same setting on a mid-range lens. (Remember large opening means shallower depth of field.) Conversely f/4 on a wide angle lens has a much bigger depth of field than a mid-range lens.
With the telephoto lens at f/5.6 the depth of field is extremely shallow with only the blossoms in the immediate foreground in focus. I bet you didn’t know there is an ugly blue house behind those flowers! Making use of depth of field is how I made the house invisible.
With a wide angle lens at f/5.6 the depth of field is pretty big. In this case the building behind the musician is totally in focus. It probably would have been a better image if I had used a telephoto lens and moved farther away, but that was not physically possible unfortunately.
3. The distance between you and the subject
Remember the area of the scene that is sharp is measured from the subject you are focussed on. So if you are making an image of a cityscape and the whole city is miles away, you can get away with a larger aperture opening and everything will still be sharp because the whole subject is in the distance.
On the other hand if you focus on something that is a few meters away and part of your scene is miles away then you will need a small aperture if you want everything to be sharp.
A few more examples to demonstrate depth of field:
When you are photographing be conscious of how you want the background in your image to look and take control of the depth of field!
Great job explaining this all too important and often very confusing subject for people just starting to learn how to control their cameras. I get asked about aperture all the time and even with all the information out there people are still looking for different ways of explaining it.
Great work 🙂
Hi John, I know I think depth of field is one of the hardest concepts to learn. And, you are right, there seems to be many ways of explaining it many of which contradict each other. Thank you very much for your comments, I appreciate it.
Thank you Anne, finally I am beginning to understand DOF, your explanation simplified it for me.
Great to hear Maureen, thanks!
Depth of field is a measure of how much of a photo is in focus. If you use a compact digital camera, and use it in auto mode, you probably have a “long” depth of field.
Hi Michael, I think it depends on the camera. When I used to use a compact camera in auto mode, my camera always chose a large aperture with small depth of field. I don’t know how the cameras choose these settings. But that is one of the best reasons to get out of auto mode and start taking control of what you want the image to turn out like instead of letting the camera make the decisions. Try using aperture priority and see what your camera does then. Thank you very much for contributing your comments, they are always welcome!
You are welcome Anne.
Thanks, Anne. You managed to explain this complex topic very clearly! Your photographs illustrated it beautifully too!
Thank you very much Ursula! I’m glad you found it helpful.
Great post and images Anne that illustrate this often misunderstood concept.
Many thanks Russ, your comments are much appreciated!
This is the best article I’ve read on this topic! Great photographs here that really illustrate your point… to a point! Very easy to understand, this is written just perfectly Anne, I sure did enjoy it.
That is a huge compliment, thank you so much Toad!!
Anne, all the depth of field tutorials that I have read before only cover the lens aperture part, but they seem to neglect the fact that the same aperture gives you different depth of field depending on the focal length, I did learn that by experience. And for me it is very important, that has been the reason that have made favour some lenses over others over time. Thanks for putting it all together in such clear way!
Thank you for your great comments Berta. I too have discovered this with experience and often choose one lens over another just to get the depth of field and perspective I want. I’m glad you enjoyed the post.
ANNE, I AM A NOVICE COMING OUT OF THE AUTO INTO MANUAL MODE. I HAVE BEEN TRYING TO GET AN IMAGE WITH A SHALLOW DOF WITH MY NIKON COOLPIX 4500 BUT HAVE NOT SUCCEEDED. WITH A LARGE APERTURE SET IN MANUAL MODE, ONCE I ZOOM IN, THE APERTURE CHANGES AUTOMATICALLY SO THAT I DON’T GET A BOKEH. IF I DON’T ZOOM IN THE EXPOSURE HAS TO BE MANAGED. DO I NEED TO USE AN SLR CAMERA IN THIS CASE TO GET THE RESULTS OF A PROPER DOF? AND YOUR EXPLANATION IN YOUR BLOG IS VERY PLEASING, SIMPLE & DETAILED TO SAY THE LEAST.
Hi Satish, sorry for the delay in my reply. If your camera has an aperture priority mode, that’s where you want to be. Then you can set the aperture for the largest it can be (say 2.8) and the camera will then calculate the appropriate shutter speed. I just looked up your camera and it does have aperture priority. You hold down the “mode” button while turning the command dial until the mode “A” displays in the lower left corner of the LCD. Then, once it is in aperture mode, you use the command dial to select the aperture. I hope that helps!
By the way, I found that information in the user guide here:
http://www.cs.mtu.edu/~shene/DigiCam/User-Guide/4500/index.html
Thank you very much, Anne.
I’m still a beginner and your topic is the best that i’ve ever read! No need for blah blah blah, just direct to the point 🙂
Thank you Anne for your excellent article and beautiful photos on DOF.
I shoot with a crop sensor camera and wonder when choosing a lens for a particular DOF do I need to take into consideration the crop factor of my camera? I am assuming your photos were shot with a full frame camera.
Thank you Anne for sharing your knowledge and wonderful adventures with your photography. You are most encouraging to this beginner.
Anne:
I knew about 90% of this tutorial, yet it was a good refresher course. I especially liked your pairs of comparison photos. I shoot about 85% of my shots in aperture priority on my old, but trusty, Canon 40D. The rest of the time I’m in sports mode trying to get birds in flight.
Your website has been in my favorites bar for two months. I appreciate all that you do. You have a generous spirit.
Gratefully,
Richard Havenga – Author of blog: “Walk With Father Nature
http://walkwithfathernature.blogspot.com/2015/04/like-prayer.html
Thanks for explaining this “hard to get your head around” topic in such a straightforward and easy to follow way. I will send a link from my facebook as I am also often asked this question. Not everyone has all the different types of lenses for the different settings, such as macro, tele, wide angle. And so they end up photographing insects with a telelens, for example, and can’t figure out why only part of the creature is sharp.
Greatly appreciate your generous sharing.
Excellent article Anne. The fstop issue can be awfully confusing to beginners – why large aperture with small fstop? The way i got my head around it was to learn a bit more about light and what was happening physically when you change fstop. In the end I resolved my confusion with the understanding that the iris actually BLOCKS light from reaching the sensor. It is a non issue then. If I want to block a lot of light then I select a large fstop. Conversely, if I want to block a small amount of the available light, I select a small fstop.
I’m still working on a simple explantion for how this affects depth of field!
At last – a simple, easy-to-comprehend explanation of why the f-numbers get larger as the opening gets smaller!! Why haven’t I read anywhere else that you can equate it with fractions! Great article, Anne – very clear and well-illustrated.
Brillant! Your explanation is simple and the supporting photo helps greatly visualize the principles explained by your text. I might be experienced but your tip was very refreshing. I tend to forget some basics as I grow older 🙂
So simple and easy to follow.I have to learn to follow directions.
Thank you Anne.
Hi Anne – Thank you for clearing this up. I had no idea that different lenses would affect the depth of field. I finally learned to use a large aperture to blur the backgrounds, but then I would use other lenses and I just couldn’t get the blur – now I know why.
Hi Anne,
So well explained, with many of us being visual which really showed me why close-ups with certain lenses have become my favorites.
Much appreciate your articles and wishing you “Happy Shooting” and fun in your travels !
Thank you for your very clear explanations Anne, I am understanding these concepts more and more everyday and am finding it much easier to explain to other folks that are just setting out on their photography journey. It helps when one is able to share picture taking with someone that is willing to learn more, experiment more and just plain, enjoy finding the beautiful things in life that photography helps you see that you may never have noticed before.
Good explanation, Anne! Too many newbie photographers I have met don’t understand what a “teacher” says about DOF settings are wide, narrow, deep, thin, etc. Your explanation made it easier to understand.
Hi Anne,
I have been following your articles for a few series already and you have made such a tricky topic remarkably easy to understand. I will be greatly appreciated if you can incorporate the calculatation of the hyperfocal distance in relation to the depth of field.
Thank you very much in advance.
Cheers!
You’ve repeated one myth about DOF. In fact, changing focal length does not change DOF. The same composition shot with two different focal length lenses at the same aperture will produce the same depth of field. This is easy to demonstrate: create the same composition at the same f/stop with two lenses. What will change is the relationship between near/far elements in the scene.
It’s easy to think that changing focal length changes DOF when the image comparison is not apples-to-apples. When you fill the frame with the same content, DOF at any aperture is identical.
Hi Denis, I disagree. The way you have explained it, you are using “the same composition”. That means you have two variables: the lens and the distance between you and the subject. In my example I have only one variable being the lens. To me it makes more sense to understand what the difference in depth of field is going to be when I stand in the same spot and switch lenses. That’s practical. The way I look at it, if you use a long focal length, say 200mm, at f/5.6 you can easily get a nicely blurred background. Good to know. But if you use a wide angle lens, and move way closer, you’d have to be millimeters away from your subject, which is not practical and often not possible because the lens wouldn’t be able to focus that close. When I understood the difference in the depth of field I would be able to create with my lenses, it made a big difference to my photography, so that’s how I teach it. Most people don’t want to do mathematical calculations of hyper focal distance. They just want to know what’s going to happen when they switch lenses!
Just bought my first new lens for my Nikon D3200. It is a 300 zoom. Hadn’t even had time to discover that with it, f5.6 would give me a different depth of field than with the standard lens at the same f stop. Being able to understand this and think it through will help me to make better choices when it comes to using my lenses. Thanks Anne.
Your blog/newsletter is much better than hundreds or thousands out there…
Your way of explaining difficult subjects in a simple manner really pleases me.
I am already a fan of your writing style and your photos, even your personality (and I got to know your site very recently). I am feeling compelled to buy your e-books, something I have never done.
Regards,
Luiz Muzzi
Great article Anne. I’m a big fan of your work. I live in Brazil but love visiting national parks in the US, but can’t get any picture really beautiful like yours. I have a Canon 70D and a few lenses. I’m unable to get a sharp landscape picture where everything is in-focus. I tried focusing at about 1/3 of the composition but still not sharp enough. Your article is a great help. Thank you! Keep shooting those beautiful wonders and thank you for sharing with us.
Thank you Anne for a simple and easy to understand explanation on DOF..
I have been following all your Tips and like the way you explain.. Have also downloaded both your books which have been very helpful 🙂
Hi Anne.
I just discovered you and I’m hooked!
You clarify with such ease what mystifies many of us who love photography but lack technique.
Thanks for helping us to become better photographers.
LOVE YA!
The lens and f/ under each picture helps me, not many pros do this, thanks.
This article helps me a great deal to put it all together. I’ve been a hobbyist photographer for over 20 years, and I am really just now getting to purchase some of my dream lenses, such as my new 70-200mm f/2.8. Since I’m able to open up to such a wide aperture with this lens, I want to be able to control the DOF in most of my photography. It’s tough enough to keep the backwards f-stop straight in my head, but the advice helps me to remember the other two elements of controlling DOF: focal length and distance to subject. I may print this out and carry it around in my camera bag. Thank you for the clear explanation!
Hi Jennifer, excellent, I’m so glad to hear that the article helped you make sense of it all 🙂 It can be hard to get your head around when it’s different for every lens and the distance between yourself and the subject makes a huge difference as well. I love that 70-200 f/2.8 lens! I have rented it a couple of times, but don’t own it myself. It’s excellent for wildlife. Thanks for taking the time to comment, it is much appreciated.
I really enjoyed this article and the pictures to illustrate the point. I am on the learning curve when it comes to taking control. I’m starting to spend more time with this and just spent the last week, after work, practicing different dof’s with my cut tulips. Thanks again. This is a keeper for me and I can’t wait to get some more cut tulips and practice how I want the image to look in each shot.
Thank you for such great feedback on the post Kathy, I really appreciate it. And good for you for practicing your dof! That will make a big difference when it comes to conveying your artistic vision in your photographs.
Thank You so much for this article explaining DOFm I Impressed as I actually understood your explanation.
Great to hear David, thank you!
Thanks Anne for being so helpful with your explanations; I just started photographing birds with an old Konica 5D ( my budget is tight) , I will try to apply your advices in my photography. And make a trip to Argentina!!!!
You are most welcome Roberto, I’m glad you found the article helpful. Argentina sounds amazing!
Hi Anne, Ron here. When I want to double-check what the depth of field is in an image before I hit the shutter button, I like to use the DOF preview button on my Canon DSLR. I find it works well at the larger apertures and up to about f8, but unfortunately becomes almost too dark to be of any use above that setting. Still a good tool that I use a lot.
Hi Ron, that can be a helpful tool, but I almost always find it too dark to really see what the depth of field is going to be like. I find it easier to just take the shot and then review the photo in the LCD afterwards. But thanks for the suggestions, some of the readers might like to try that out.
Anne,
Your DOF description is perfect.
I remember my first manual camera and discovering the uniqueness of DOF, when those pictures came back I knew I had found one of my favorite features on my camera. The human eye is amazing but we are unable to see DOF without the camera. WOW
Hi Dale, yes, that is the thing. We can kind of perceive depth of field in our peripheral vision, but as soon as we try to look at it it comes into focus. Maybe that’s why we like the shallow depth of field in photography, we can actually look at it! Thanks for your comments.
Thank you Anne,
I just recently got my first full frame Canon EOS 6D and your writings are very inspirational,
You help me (us) wade through the information overload situation of “camera settings and practices.”
It’s all your fault…..I just purchased LightRoom and love it 🙂
Your talks, lessons and demonstrations of the various products are extremely helpful
So please keep up this good work.
Hi Arthur. I’m glad to hear that you are finding the blog posts and demos helpful 🙂 And good for you for buying Lightroom! I wish I had just started with Lightroom in the first place, so I’m sure you’ll be happy with it. There might be a bit of a learning curve at first, but in the long run you are better off than starting with one software and switching a few times before you get to the one that lasts. Thank you so much for your kind comments.
DOF: Next week I am going to Canyon De Chelly. My nemesis for more than 16 years has been Spider Rock! The closest I can get, and not be at the base looking up, is about 150 yards.
So, my plan of action is to adjust my ASA t0 100, open my lens as far as possible, and hope for a slow shutter speed. I am an “amateur vacation photographer”.
To help, I purchased a “Pro-Master” 72 mm adjustable neutral density filer. (ND-3 to ND-400) When I went to my local camera store 35 miles away, the owner told me, with a smile and laugh, the days of
individual ND +1, +2, +4, etc. are long gone. Good! That should save some $$$.
This may seem like over kill, but the smallest aperature of my Tamrom 18-400mm lens is f/6.3 and my Canon 70D camera has a fastest speed of 1/8000. I will tell you my results when I return in about 2 weeks.
Hi Wayne, I’d love to know how that ProMaster Variable ND works out for you. I noticed that it is quite a reasonable price compared to the very popular Singh Ray which will set you back almost $400. Do you find a colour cast to the ProMaster? Unfortunately, I think your camera store may have given you incorrect information because people still purchase and use the individual ND filters all the time! In fact, most photographers use the square drop in kind. But on the other hand, a set of square drop ins will cost you more than your ProMaster, which is why I’m very curious about how that works out. Have fun at Canyon de Chelly, it’s a great spot! I photographed Spider Rock from the lookout. I didn’t make it down to the valley floor. Had to save something for next time 🙂
Dear Anne, I must confess that you are my favourite photographer and you can not imagine how much I, as an amateur pjotographer, have learned reading your texts and watching your extaordinary photographs.
I am sure that it is due my limited knowledge of English that I do not understan the following paragraph:
“2. Your lens
Just to make it even more complicated, all this changes with every lens you have!
So the setting of f/4 ,for example, is actually different depending on the focal length of your lens. f/4 on a telephoto lens like a 200mm is actually a larger opening than f/4 on a 50mm lens”
When I check on my Nikon D7100, and with priority to aperture (A), f/4 or any other f, the f remains the same with all the focal lengths and the only change is that the time the lens is open is longer or shorter. What I am doing wrong?
Excuse muy poor English and thankyou very much for your comment and all your posts.
Hi Cosme, it is a complicated subject and I should look at re-wording that to make it clearer. You are right, your camera will always say f/4 when you set it to f/4. But the depth of field you achieve with f/4 will be different depending on which lens you use. The easiest way to understand what this means is to try it out. Take a photo with a medium focal length lens, say 35 or 50 and set it to f/4. Notice how much of the scene is in focus behind the subject you focussed on. Then take a photo with a long lens, say 200 or 300 at f/4 and again notice how much of the scene behind your subject is in focus. The long lens at f/4 will have a much softer background. So if you want a soft background (shallow depth of field), it is better to get farther away from your subject and use a longer lens. I hope this helps to clarify.
So much to remember. I have an idea that one can use PhotoPills https://www.photopills.com/ to generate a cheat sheet for just about any camera and lens combination. Take the cheat sheet along until you no longer need it. PhotoPills even computes the hyperfocal distance. Caution to anyone using huperfocal distance because coming up even a bit short can result in fuzzy far distances. Always focus a bit past the hyperfocal point to insure sharp focus at infinity, at the expense of a slight increase in the depth of fuzzy foreground.
Hi Roger, thanks for sharing this information. I have heard of photopills, but have never used it myself. It looks great actually! Now I just need a real phone 🙂