It is a disappointment all photographers face at some point. In fact, it is a disappointment most photographers face on every shoot!
There are so many things that can go wrong, so many mistakes that can be made to cause a photograph to be blurry. It’s inevitable.
Here are 5 common reasons why your photos are not as sharp as you want them to be:
1. Your shutter speed is too slow
I put this one first for a reason! It’s by far the most common culprit. Now, this doesn’t apply if you are using a tripod for landscape photography. But if you are hand holding your camera it certainly does apply. Even more so if you are doing wildlife photography.
First let’s talk about general photography. There is a rule of thumb that your shutter speed should never be slower than the reciprocal of your lens. So if you are using a 300mm lens, you should never go slower than 1/300th of a second.
But even if you are using a short lens, like 50mm, that doesn’t mean you can go as slow as 1/50th of a second! I recommend you do a little test to find out what your own personal slowest shutter speed is. Everyone shakes a little, and some more than others. A lot of people can go as low as 1/80th of a second. Personally, I never go lower than 1/125th of a second.
It’s worth spending a few minutes to test yourself at different shutters speeds, look at your photos on your computer after, and see at what point they start to look out of focus.
When it comes to wildlife photography, well that’s another thing all together. For wildlife that appears to be not moving, like a bird standing perfectly still, I recommend not going lower than 1/500th of a second. If it is moving at all, then 1/1,000th of a second. And if it is flying or running, even faster.
You might have to compromise on ISO to get these high shutter speeds, but it’s better to have a noisy image that is sharp than an image that is blurry. You can’t fix blurry.
2. You are not focussing in the right place
Cameras these days are so smart. Or at least they think they are 🙂 But really, a smart camera is only good at doing what you tell it to do. If you don’t tell it what to do, it will just guess.
It might sound great to have 64 focus points on your camera, but it doesn’t help if you don’t tell your camera which of them to use. If you just let your camera choose from all the possible focus points, it will probably choose to focus on whatever is closest to the camera, and that might not be your main subject.
Try changing your focus area to one single point. You don’t have to pick the center point all the time. There will be a way that you can easily move that focus point around to pick one that is off center. This will give you good practice at making sure the right thing is in focus.
I’m not saying the other focus areas are not handy although I personally never use the area with all the points or the zones. But I do like the focus area setting that expands to the 4 points next to the main one you pick. That is great for subjects that are moving.
3. You are using the wrong focus drive mode
When you are photographing stationary subjects, you should use single-shot focus, known as AF-S or One-shot AF. If you use continuous focus mode on a stationary subject, your camera will be continually trying to focus which can actually introduce blur.
When you are photographing moving subjects, make sure you use continuous auto focus, known as AF-C or AI Servo, which will track motion. This is especially important for wildlife when you always want the eye to be in focus, but the eye is getting closer as the animal moves.
There is often another focus drive mode on cameras which is an automatic mode. If you use that, you are allowing your camera to decide which of the previous two focus modes is best. Again, the point of having a fancy camera is to be able to tell it what to do, so I don’t recommend using that focus drive mode.
4. Your aperture is too wide
Everyone loves those shots that have shallow depth of field where the main subject is in focus and the background is all soft and dreamy. But that doesn’t mean you should shoot wide open all the time.
When your aperture is at it’s widest opening (a low f stop number like f/2.8 or f/5.6) you will get shallow depth of field. But if you are having trouble getting your subject in focus, give yourself a little leeway and close down the aperture a little. Try f/8 or f/11. That way the depth of field will be a little more generous, meaning more things will be in focus both in front of and behind your focus point.
It’s nice to be exact and get the eye of the bird in focus, but if it isn’t working out, try using a smaller aperture to increase your chances.
5. You are using a poor quality lens
While a lot of people are quick to blame their lens instead of their technique or their settings, I have to say it is not usually the lens. But it does happen.
If you think you have covered all the other things that could possibly be causing your photos to be blurry and you suspect your lens, you might need to calibrate it.
The first step is to do some semi-scientific testing to make sure it really is your lens. Start by testing the lens on another camera body to see if you get similar results. Then test your camera with another lens. That should give you an idea whether your suspicions might be true.
If you still suspect your lens, then some more semi-scientific testing is in order. First, check your camera manual to see if your camera enables you to set micro-focus adjustments. If so, you should be able to correct any minor errors in focus that are happening.
In the video below, I explain exactly how to set up your test and what tools to use. You can see how I used this process to determine that my brand new and very expensive wildlife lens was a lemon!!
Click here to watch the video on YouTube.
If you find you need to go this route, I recommend the Datacolor SpyderLENSCAL autofocus calibration aid. Trying to make your own tool is just one more thing that can go wrong!
It doesn’t always turn out the way mine did in the video. I have used the SpyderLENSCAL on other lenses to determine when the focus was off by just a tiny bit, and then setting the autofocus micro-adjustment in my camera to compensate, with fantastic results.
Calibrating your lens may not be a fun process, but when all your images start coming out sharp, you’ll be glad you invested the time to do it.
Perhaps one may have left the Image Stabilization / V.C. , or whatever your lens brand calls it, ON. Try turning the lever/knob off , and refocus. This can give the camera the shakes , even on a tripod.
Hi Jer, no, in video I think I mentioned that the image stabilization was off because I was on a tripod. Good suggestion though!
I mentioned it , only for the reason that one sees others NOT mentioning this little bit of information, or should I say ,OMITTING the information. Some bits of info should be repeated, to get into the hard cranium , which someone I know , has.
Yeah, I decided to keep this post down to “5 things” but I could do a follow up with another 10 things!! There are so many things that can lead to a soft image … Thanks again for your comments.
I just recently discovered another reason my photos weren’t as sharp as they could be. I was using the detail panel incorrectly in Lr. I wasn’t using the mask function, so it sharpened everything. Then I had to really step up the noise reduction to get the noise out of the sky, clouds, etc. This dulled down my overall image. Now I use the mask, use much less noise reduction, and I am very pleased with the difference.
Yes, that can certainly happen in post processing. Noise reduction can make everything a little soft. That’s why I like to use Topaz DeNoise, it does a much better job of it. But in any case, I didn’t even get that far. These are results right out of the camera that were horribly out of focus. You can’t fix that. Thanks for your comments. I think that might help a lot of readers who don’t know about noise reduction causing softness.
P.S. I figured out what I was doing wrong by re-watching segment 12, “Develop module Detail Painel” in Anne’s Launch into Lightroom video.
Excellent!! I’m so glad the course was helpful for you! 🙂
I have a Nikon 200-500 lens and sometimes far away at a deer that isn’t moving it is not sharp focus. I thought about buying a Tamron 150-600 but not now!! Thanks for your suggestions and information!!
Small subjects at a distance are always a challenge. But I can get sharp photos of things way off in the distance with my 400mm prime so I would expect this lens to do the same. It didn’t. But hopefully the next copy will. Fingers crossed! Thanks for the feedback Sue.
Hi Anne,
I had the same problem with my original 70-200 f2.8 MkI,. It went back to Canon several time before I got a replacement. I even compared ( both on my 5DMkII) it to an old 200mm Minolta Rokkor I have with a cheapo Chinese adapter with some glass in it to compensate to achieve infinity. It was sharper & when the guy from Canon tried both himself that sealed the deal, I got a replacement. Not even “L” series lenses are correct.
Hi Peter, you are quite correct, sometimes there is just a lemon. I guess I have been lucky so far that I haven’t had a lemon until now. But when spending so much money on a lens, I want to be delighted with it! I sure hope the replacement doesn’t let me down. Thanks for your feedback about your experience.
I just purchased a Sigma 150-600mm lens. One reason I purchased it was because of the dock that connects the lens to the computer. Besides firmware updates, the software allows for lens alignment and the programming of two switches.
I really am impressed with the sharpness of the lens. Feather details are crystal clear. It’s no lightweight at 4lbs, but I can still handhold it.
You might want to try it.
Hi Rosalind, yes, the Tamron had the same thing with the dock that you can use to do focus micro-adjustments. I liked the dock! It is handy and allows you to do a lot more adjustments than I can do in camera. Still, it was not enough. If my replacement lens doesn’t knock my socks off I will probably try the Sigma like yours next. Thanks for your comments!
Great blog and video. You now made it even harder for me to decide on which lens to purchase, hopefully by the Fall. I am trying to decide on either the Canon 100-400II, Sigma 150-600 Contemporary, or the Tamron 150-600 G2. I had read good reviews on the Tamron G2 version. I would like the longer lens for the obvious reason, the reach; but, I really want a lens that is sharp, especially at that high price (anything over $1000 CAD is high price for me.
Anne, I assume you had the first generation when you did the video? I hope you do another video/blog when you get your replacement lens.
Hi Jane, no it was the second generation lens, the G2 in the video. I will indeed do a follow up when I get the replacement lens. I sure hope it is not a disappointment. If it is, I’ll try the Sigma next. I have rented the Canon 100-400 many times and it is a beautiful lens. But I want the extra reach. Plus I already own the Canon 400 f/5.6L, which is also a great lens by the way. That one might be an option for you if you just want a longer lens and not necessarily a zoom lens. For wildlife, I usually use a 70-300 and the 400. Thanks for your visit and comments.
Hi Anne,
Oh, that is disappointing to hear, it being the G2!. I watched so many reviews on the G2 and they were mostly positive. I like the idea of locks at different focal lengths.
I want to get the 150 – 600 zoom lens for the reach and thought if I get the Canon 100-400 ii, I will always wonder if I would have preferred the Tamron’s length. I don’t make money on my photography; so, cost is a big factor for me and the Canon’s 100-400 costs more than the Tamrons long lens. There are 3 lens I still would like to get to be all set with gear for awhile (unless lottery comes my way, LOL) and I cannot afford a whole lot. I need the EF lens for wide angle, 100mm macro and the Tamron 150-600 (hopefully) lens.
I probably won’t be in the market for this lens until the Fall; so, I hope you do your second review before then.
Jane
I will, I just received the replacement lens and am about to start testing it out. I really really want it to be good!!
What are your thoughts on back-button focus? Do you think this function may reduce photo sharpness since it is achieved by putting the camera in AI?
Hi Carol, I love back button focus and use it all the time for my wildlife photography. I do not think it results in any reduction of sharpness. I put my camera in continuous focus mode (which on the Canon is called AI Servo). That way you can essentially get single shot by pressing the back button and letting it go, or get continuous by holding down the button. I wouldn’t use AI Focus mode for any reason. That is letting your camera decide how to focus and it would indeed result in a reduction of sharpness in my opinion. Thanks for your question!
Hi Anne. Thanks for demonstrating why this lens sucks in a video. I am afraid that my lens will act the same way, so I need to take it for a test tomorrow. I just got same lens (Tamron 150-600MM G1 for Nikon) exactly a week ago, at a giveaway price. I am using it on an FX, and DX much later. I did some test shoot at the store though, seemed fine. This is my first super long lens as a nature photographer, and so I am a bit concerned after seeing your video.
Thanks for your regularly inspiring posts 🙂
I sure hope your lens is better than the one I got! It sounds like yours is the first generation version of that lens. Mine was the second generation, but it was still a terrible lens. I am still waiting for my replacement and plan on doing a follow up to let everyone know how it works out. Thanks for your visit and comments 🙂
Hi Anne, I have the 150-600 mm too for Canon. I have watched your video several times and it inspired me to test out the focus using your video as a guide. I have been happy with my results birding,but being new to birding and the new lens and with so many variables I was not sure as to what the lens could achieve. Anyway I ran the calibration tests and I was horrified at the results! Other than the 7 ft range I cannot really claim that anything was in focus! I did the test wide open as you recommended and I’m wondering if the problem lies there with such minimal depth of field? However most occasions out shooting the light is not always good enough to stop down for better depth of field. So F5 or 6.3 are where most photos will be at. I would estimate it’s wildly front focusing but hard to really judge at the infinity and 65ft mark. I’ve ordered the Tap-In Console to see if a factory reset might help,I’ll also try re calibrating after that. Thanks for the video…it really opened my eyes to the problem.
Hi Tony, I’m so glad the video helped! Hopefully the tap-in-console will allow you to calibrate your lens. I just hope it isn’t front focussing as much as mine was because mine was so far out of whack I couldn’t fix it. You should do the calibration test with the aperture wide open to make sure the focus spot is indeed in focus, even if it’s the only thing in focus due to shallow depth of field. That spot should still be in focus or, like you say, you’ll get out of focus shots in low light. Stopping down the aperture will increase the range in which you get sharp focus, but it doesn’t really help you calibrate your lens so that the focus is exact. Good luck!
I had the same problem focusing with my Tamron 150-600 G2. Whether it was the exact problem you had, I don’t know but I do know I couldn’t get a clear photo out of it (I lost some great moose photos because of it, arrrgg).
I contacted Tamron and they had me send in my lens with the camera that I was using with it (Nikon D810). When I got it back, it was exactly the same.
If I shoot in the F13-16 range it’s pretty good. But at F5.6-8 it’s useless at any distance. Shortly after that I bought a Nikkor 200-400mm and retired my Tamron G2. I also own the first generation of the 150-600mm, a Tamron 24-70mm, a Tamron 200-500. I’m not bragging. I’m just stating that with Tamron, the G2 is the last Tamron lens I will buy.
Thanks for the feedback about your experience with the lens. This is the first Tamron lens I have bought. It did not make a good first (or second) impression, so I really doubt I will ever try another one unless no other options exist. It is very frustrating to go through the whole calibration process and have the lens still not focus properly. I understand how you feel about losing the moose photo! The only time I’ve ever seen a bear in the estuary here in Campbell River I happened to be testing the Tamron and so my photo is out of focus. Arrrghgh!!
Wow, it is great to hear from people who actually are using the Tamron G2 lens. I now am thinking that it would be best to get the Canon 100 – 400mm ii lens even though I would not have the reach. I will have to research how this lens works with Canon’s teleconverters. I would mainly be using it on my 7dMark ii; but, I can also use it on my 5dMark iii on heavy overcast days or near dusk times. The one thing I really hate about getting the Canon lens is the price (close to $3000 CAD). It is a steep increase price from Canon’s first generation. I wish these companies would think like me; if you lower the price, you would sell more of them and less people would go the third party route. I am starting to think Canon and Nikon have shares in Tamron and Sigma etc. LOL.
I think the thing is that Canon makes quality lenses, and if you want that quality you have to pay for it. The 100-400 is a beautiful lens. I don’t own it, but I have rented it many times. Thanks for your comments!
Jane,
I have an acquaintance that shoots with a 7dMark ii and the Canon 100-400 and his shots are superb. The price of the new ii lens at B&H is $2049. Amazon and a few others have it for about the same price. Once you get over the initial cost of the lens you’ll never look back. A good lens just keeps on giving, year after year. If you’re still in doubt, just rent on for a week. Hope this helps.
I totally agree.
Ivan,
Maybe I will just save a bit longer before getting the longer lens and buy the Canon’s 100-400 ii when it goes on sale and the 1.4 extender down the road. I know that the lens will keep its value if I need to sell it in the future.
I was hoping the Tamron or Sigma’s 150-600 would be sharp because I wanted the 600 reach; but, from reading/watching reviews, the sharpness is reduced as you get closer to the 600mm end.
Yeah, that is what I have read too, although I would like to try the Sigma lenses and see how they compare. I don’t think there is any point if they get soft at the long end, since that reach is what we are all looking for.
Yes Anne, I agree with you as the reason to get the 150 – 600, so, if the image is soft at that zoom, it is of no use to us since those blurry images would just get deleted; at least I delete those images.
I have the first generation of Tamron’s 70-200 f/2.8 and find my images are not sharp at all when I get close to the 200 zoom. I was talked out of buying the Canon 70-200 f/4 because I would be able to get an f/2.8 for less cost than the Canon f/4 lens (plus you have to purchase a lens collar extra). I do now regret not buying the Canon lens though. Oh well.
I think that the way to go would be to get the Canon 100-400 ii and if I need a longer reach, I can always buy the Tamrons or Sigma’s 150-600 later. Or buy the 1.4 extender. I think the 100-400 ii works better with the extender than the first generation lens. It better for the price of the lens, LOL.
Hi Jane, I agree, the 100-400 with the 1.4 extender would be the best option. It’s much more expensive than the Tamron 150-600 though, but the image quality is there, and without image quality what is the point? I love my 400mm prime, but when I put the extender on it, it is really hard to find my subject! At least with the 100-400 you could zoom out, find the subject, then zoom in. But really, cropping a little isn’t so bad either, so I’m just doing that for now. I might try the Sigma in the future, but after going through 2 of the Tamrons, my patience for testing lenses is over for a little while 🙂 Thanks for the comments!
Well I did get the Tap-In for my 150-600mm G2 and with the firmware and a factory reset, plus minor adjustments, things are working fairly well. I’m getting some lovely shots. The thing is, there are so many variables in bird photography that when I check my discards,especially when I check what my single focus point actually caught, focus problems most often could be put down to user error. I have the 100-400mm (first version) and it’s my walk around lens, it’s a great lens, but one is always looking for that little bit more reach. I have the 1.4 converter too, but it is a bit limiting because of the use of only the center spot, and honestly for me the I don’t really care for the shots with it on the 100-400mm. I’ve invested a bit more time and care (new tripod) into using the 100-600mm and for the price, I’m pretty satisfied now. However,when I hit the lottery I will indeed replace it with the 600mm Prime!!!
I’m glad to hear that there are at least a few good copies out there and that you were able to use the tap-in-console to adjust yours to your satisfaction. That’s what I was hoping for, but mine was a total lemon. Both of them! I agree that focus problems are almost always not the lens. There are a lot of things that can cause an out of focus image. But sometimes, on rare occasions, it is the lens. The 600mm prime sounds like it would be good, but for $10,000 ($13,000 for the newest one) and 6.7 pounds, I think I’ll just crop 🙂
Just watched your tutorial on 5 ways to increase sharpness in photos. I especially liked the accompanying shots. Was the bear really shot at 4000 ISO? No noise, or were you able to edit it out. Beautiful pix, simple fact filled explanations. Good job, thanks for the info.
Thanks Richard, glad you enjoyed the tutorial. Yes, the bear was shot at ISO 4000. I used a very small amount of noise reduction in Lightroom, but that’s it. I find that you don’t notice the noise in an image that has a lot of detail the same way you would in an image that has clear blue sky with no detail.